I chose to change the trigger insert on the lower grip to the larger of the two choices (provided by Camp/Cassin) and for me, the large “trigger” allows me to relax my hand even more while placing gear or shaking out. Whether I’m wearing bulkier gloves in cold temps or thin “sending” gloves, I’ve found the handle, pommel and grip to be super comfortable. The pommel is slightly adjustable for accommodating hand size, made more roomy by removing the extra pad which, I did because my hands are on the larger side. The pick profile is thin and narrow and seems to create a very efficient displacement of ice yet, the pick’s durability has been reliable even in the most heavily pulled on Steins. All in line, I’ve been impressed with how a relaxed swing results in a secure placement with an absolute minimum to swinging…consistently. The angle of the grip, relative to the pick in the “ice” mode makes the tool feel like an extension of my arm and hand. I quickly learned to love the weight and balance it was easy to appreciate the lack of energy expenditure as I learned how effortless the swing to find a confident placement could be. Because they’re a bit lighter than the other similar tools, it took me a few swings to learn how to not “over swing” them but, the X-Dream is so easy to swing, just a few placements into the very first pitch, they felt incredibly natural and confidence inspiring to me. After a full season, I will definitively state that they are the best ice tool I’ve ever owned, hands down.įirst, the shape and weight allows for an effortless and very natural swing. I decided I would buy a pair and make up my own mind about the merits of this tool. Last season, I heard many friends agree with my sentiments regarding the Petzl Nomic but a large and growing number of friends, whom I hold in high regard, started raving about Cassin’s tool – the X-Dream – for steep ice and rock. Not that they didn’t swing well, just not my preference. Nothing rock climbed as well as the Fusion (zero pick shift and no flex) but I simply didn’t care for the way they felt on steep ice. For me, the Nomic was as close to the answer as I’d found. All said and done, I still wanted that one tool that feels good to me for both rock and steep ice. I’ve always loved my Cobra’s for the alpine but, appreciated how natural and efficient the swing of the Nomic was. Over the past couple of seasons, I’ve swung the BD Fusion, Fuel, Cobra, and Petzl’s Nomic. This season however, I was psyched to discover a technical ice tool that without a doubt, works best for me throughout the diverse terrain of big mixed climbs–the Cassin X-Dream. Pick angle, flex in the shaft, pick profile and grip/pommel shape all seemed to create the need for compromise. Others that swung and stuck in steep ice beautifully but had some annoying pick angle shift when matching on secondary pommels. I’ve had tools that I loved dry tooling with but seemed to often require me to swing and swing, until I created a hole to hook. Conversations with other climbers driven by our shared passion seem to confirm that many of the “newest/latest” tools excel at steep rock climbing or at steep and technical ice but only very few seemed to do both equally well. Photo by Chris Gibisch.Īs the mixed grades get pushed, the equipment manufacturers have responded with innovative design. Jeff Shaprio getting serious with the X-Dreams. In the last 28 years, I’ve seen a lot of change in ice tool design – shape, weight, pick angle, profile – and one thing I can’t deny is that when I have a tool that is natural to swing, I’m more confident and in the end, have more fun. My ice tools, for instance, are a component of my kit that directly interact with the most critical part of my environment and are my link to moving efficiently and safely through technical terrain. For me, confidence is affected by many facets: experience, conditions, physical and mental health and, for sure, the equipment I’m using. Nothing affects my ice climbing experience more than confidence. Here he shares his experience with his new favorite ice tool, the Cassin X-Dream. Jeff Shapiro is a man often called to steep, icy walls.
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